On March 17, 2026, we boarded an American Airlines jet bound for Madrid, Spain. We had wanted to visit Madrid for some time and, in fact, had been booked to come in 2020 when the pandemic closed everything down. Around August of last year, I told JoAnn that I wanted to take her to Madrid for her birthday. It was a surprise she welcomed with open arms.
Our flight was smooth and easy and we arrived to a pleasant, although an overcast and cool day. We are staying at the Palacio de los Duques, a Gran Melia Hotel, just a hop, skip and a jump from the Royal Palace.
Entrance to Palacio de los Duques
We were delighted to hear, at check-in, that our room was ready.
King Room 125 on the First Floor
Our room, Number 125 on the first floor, is pleasant but tiny. The bathroom sits just on the other side of a glass wall. I am not quite sure why anyone thought this was a good idea because, at least for us, a bathroom is a private sanctuary and not a place for exhibitionism. Fortunately, someone had the good sense to hang a curtain there. Even so, the hotel itself is lovely, very much in the style of an elegant boutique property, and the public rooms are handsome and inviting.
Lounge Area
Grand Cafe, a comfotable place to relax and have a drink
After unpacking, we decided to take a walk to get a feel for the neighborhood. The hotel is just off the Plaza de Oriente, where the Teatro Real is located, and from there it is an easy walk toward the Royal Palace, which we are scheduled to tour on Monday, the 23rd. As we approached, the French gardens looked very fine. The tulips were just beginning to come into bloom, and despite the grayness of the day, the grounds had real color and charm.
Royal Palace
French Gardens
Tulips and Daisies in French Gardens at the Royal Palace
The palace grounds were crowded, with people everywhere enjoying the gardens and broad public spaces.
A selfie in front of the Royal Palace
Madrid is a major European capital, full of beauty and ceremony. It has a population of more than 3.5 million people, and like any large city it contains both grandeur and hardship. One scene there was a reminder of that reality: not far from the great buildings and the visitors taking photographs, a woman lay on the ground holding out a plastic cup, looking for coins or perhaps something more. People walked by, as people so often do in large cities. The contrast between the splendor of the setting and the hardship before us was difficult to miss.
Poverty outside of the Royal Palace
Directly opposite the palace stands the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena. One of the striking features of the setting is how directly the palace and the cathedral face one another. You can step away from the great public space before the palace and find yourself almost immediately at Madrid’s cathedral.
Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Almudena
The story at the heart of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena is the legend of the Virgin of Almudena, who became the patroness of Madrid. According to tradition, an image of the Virgin Mary was brought to Spain in the earliest days of Christianity, and some accounts even say it came with Saint James. When Muslim forces entered the area in the early eighth century, Christians are said to have hidden the statue inside the city wall so that it would not be destroyed.
The legend continues that, after King Alfonso VI recaptured Madrid in the eleventh century, prayers were offered asking that the lost image be found. In response, part of the wall is said to have opened or crumbled, revealing the hidden statue still preserved within it, with lighted candles beside it. Whether taken as history, legend, or devotion, the story remains central to the identity of the cathedral and to Madrid itself.
Image and Altar of Our Lady of Almudena
Image of Our Lady of Almudena
Construction of the cathedral began in 1883 during the reign of King Alfonso XII, who ruled from 1874 until 1885. It was not completed until 1993, when on June 15 of that year it was consecrated and dedicated by Pope John Paul II. Inside there is also a chapel dedicated to Pope John Paul II, quite distinctive in design and, to my eye, very different from the rest of the church.
Bronze doors showing dedication by Pope John Paul II with King Juan Carlos I on the left, looking on
Side chapel dedicated to Pope John Paul II
Cathedral, another view
The cathedral itself can feel somewhat austere. At the same time, the side chapels and the areas behind and above the altar are elegant and visually rich. The contrast is interesting. The main space is restrained, but there are moments within it that are colorful, elaborate, and unexpectedly warm.
Main aisle, Cathedral of Almudena
Crucifix and artwork over Main Altar
Above the Main Altar
All in all, it was a fine first walk in Madrid: a handsome hotel in an excellent location, a first look at the Royal Palace and its gardens, and a visit to a cathedral whose story is bound up with the long history and legend of the city. Even on a cool and overcast day, the area around the Plaza de Oriente made a very good first impression on us.