We woke to a dreary day with moisture-laden clouds threatening rain. Our plan was to visit the Museo del Prado and, in the evening, go on a Tapas Tour. Our pre-purchased museum tickets were for 11 AM., and we arrived about 15 minutes early after a taxi ride of roughly the same length from our hotel.
Museo del Prado
As we waited in line to enter, we passed this group of fellows watching over us and laughing uproariously.
Thirteen Laughing at Each Other by Juan Munoz
I had no idea why it’s called Thirteen Laughing at Each Other, since there are only four men seated on what looked like stadium seats. Made of steel and bronze, the sculpture gives the unsettling impression that they know something you do not, and that they are not sharing the joke with you. It’s more as if they are laughing at you and not with you. A little later research disclosed the answer: this grouping is only one part of the overall sculpture, which includes three additional sections. Together, they comprise thirteen figures.
The Prado Museum has an interesting history. It is not simply a building filled with great paintings. It is tied to the history of the Spanish monarchy, to Madrid’s development as a capital city, and to Spain’s effort to preserve and present its artistic heritage in a public way.
The building itself goes back to the reign of King Charles III. Commissioned in 1785, it was meant to serve scientific purposes as part of a vision for knowledge and learning. Following the Napoleonic invasion, Queen Maria Isabella de Braganza supported the idea of transforming the building into a museum. In 1819, it opened to the public as the Royal Museum of Painting and Sculpture.
What gives the Prado, which is especially associated with Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco, its extraordinary character is the origin of its collection. Unlike some museums that were built piece by piece through later acquisitions, the Prado grew out of the collections assembled by Spanish kings over centuries. The Habsburgs and the Bourbons collected art not only as decoration, but also as a statement of power, taste, religion, and dynastic prestige. That helps explain why the Prado is so rich in the great masters of Spain, but also so strong in Italian and Flemish painting.
Because photography is prohibited in the Prado, I was able to take two photos, and only two, in the museum. The first, which was permitted because it’s not a painting, is of Maria Isabella of Braganza, Queen of Spain.
Maria Isabella of Braganza, Queen of Spain
And the second I took when no one was looking. While I followed the rules for the most part, only violating them once, I saw many others using their phones freely. I don’t know how I resisted the urge to do the same, but, for the most part, I did.
Painting in the Prado of the Crucifixion
After returning home, I did some research and determined that this is Goya’s “Christ Crucified.” It was painted in 1780 and presented to the Royal Academy of San Fernando. Although it’s a painting of the Crucifixion, there is something calming and serene about its presentation.
I would really like to show you more about the Prado, as there were many magnificent paintings hung upon the walls. But as I told you, photography was prohibited except for the sculptural pieces, and I adhered to the prohibition. We must have spent about two and a half hours, or maybe a little more, in the museum before departing. From there, we returned to our hotel for a bit of relaxation before heading out on our Tapas Tour.
Before describing the tour, let me pause for a moment to explain the idea of tapas. A tapa is a small portion of food served with a drink, but tapas are really about more than the food itself. They belong to a way of eating that encourages conversation, movement, and shared time. Rather than sitting down to one long formal meal, people often gather with friends, stand at a bar or sit at a small table, order a drink, and share a few small dishes before moving on to another place or continuing the evening where they are.
Traditionally, tapas were simple. They might be olives, a slice of cured ham, a bit of cheese, almonds, anchovies, or a small piece of tortilla española. Over time, tapas became far more varied and elaborate. Today they can include croquetas, patatas bravas, gambas al ajillo, grilled peppers, mushrooms, meatballs, small montaditos, seafood, and regional specialties. In some places the tapa still comes automatically with your drink. In others, you order from a menu and build your own small feast.
Now, our tapas tour. We actually planned to visit Madrid in 2020 but the pandemic brought those plans to a screeching halt. In preparation for that trip, we contacted a tour guide in Madrid about taking a Tapas Tour. She had been recommended by Rick Steves in one of his publications or TV shows. All was arranged, and we were only weeks away from boarding our plane, when the world closed down.
So, in 2026 I decided to see if she was still giving tours and if we might reconnect. As luck would have it that she was, and we did reconnect in a big way. For those of you who may be interested, her name is Almudena Cros and, spoiler alert, she was terrific. We waited in Puerta del Sol, a major plaza and as we waited we watch the hoards come and go. Some things and people were more interesting than others.
Looking for a kiss in Puerta del Sol
We met Almu in the Plaza del Sol at 5:30 PM. She told us she is a small lady with fiery red hair carrying a raspberry-colored shoulder bag. Her description was spot on. She appeared out of the drizzly mist a few minutes after 5:30 having come from her daytime job as a tour guide at the Prado. She has a degree in art history and I can well believe is quite good at what she does.
Almu and JoAnn outside Restaurante Casa Labra, our second stop
Our first stop was at a wonderful cafe for hot chocolate and a wonderful cream-filled pastry for dessert. We were doing things in reverse because Almu had limited time (she needed to catch a bus and then a train home at 9:00 PM). So, sweets before savory. The place, Antigua Pasteleria del Pozo, was terrific; the hot chocolate really good and the pastry outstanding.
Antigua Pasteleria del Pozo
Then on to our second stop, Restaurante Casa Labra. We arrived there just before opening and actually had to wait until the servers and kitchen crew arrived. Our tapa there was fried cod and it was outstanding; hot and steaming fresh from the fryer accompanied by a small glass of wine. From there we moved on to La Casa del Abuelo for garlic shrimp in broth, also very good.
JoAnn & Almu in La Casa del Abuelo
One more stop before Almu needed to catch her transportation home. This was Cerveceria Alemana where we had sliced meats and cheeses. It’s history say it was frequented by Ernest Hemingway, who supposedly had a favorite table by the window. It’s located in Plaza de Santa Ana and was founded in 1904 by a group of German Industrialists as a beer hall.
Cerveceria Alemana
Photo of Hemingway over his favorite window table
Then it was time to say good night to Almu and thank her for a wonderful evening. We thoroughly enjoyed our tapas tour and we really enjoyed meeting, and getting to know, Almu. From there it was back to the Palacio.
Enjoy a few photos taken on our way back.
Nighttime in Madrid
Tiled facade of Villa Rosa
Puerta del Sol
And, last but certainly not least, the symbol of Madrid.
El Oso y el Madrono (The Bear and the Strawberry Tree)
The sculpture shows a bear standing on its hind legs, reaching up to feed from a madroño tree (a strawberry tree), a small Mediterranean tree with small red fruit. The image symbolizes Madrid’s identity and reaches back to the city’s medieval past. The usual explanation is that the emblem reflects an old division of rights between the town council and the church over the use of surrounding lands: the bear represented the local wildlife and hunting grounds, while the tree reflected control over woods and vegetation. Over time, the pairing became the official and affectionate emblem of Madrid itself.
Seen at the end of a damp day that began in the Prado and ended with wine, shrimp, cod, and conversation, it felt like a fitting farewell image. It was one more reminder that Madrid is a city that blends history, art, food, and public life so naturally that they seem to belong to one another.