It wasn’t long ago that we sailed into Zeebrugge. On that sailing, we chose to go to Bruges. My post from that day, if you are interested, was on June 26, 2023. We decided on this trip to visit Ghent. We opted for one of the excursions from the ship, a canal cruise, and off we went with forty of our very new best friends.
Ghent is one of those cities where the medieval past still feels very present, but not staged. Its canals, Gothic towers, stone quays, guild houses, cafés, students, cyclists, and residents all seem to share the same space. In the Middle Ages, Ghent was one of the great cities of Flanders, made wealthy by the wool and cloth trade, and that prosperity is still visible in places like St. Bavo’s Cathedral, the Belfry, the Castle of the Counts, and the old quays of Graslei and Korenlei.
Following an or so bus ride, we boarded a boat that held about forty passengers and were wedged into small, uncomfortable seats. I was lucky enough to sit along the outer edge, where I had a pretty good view. JoAnn, whom I had rather unchivalrously abandoned as we boarded, ended up in a middle seat behind a very large, or should I say gigantic, man. Weather-wise, it looked like rain at every bend in the river, but it never really arrived. It was cool and breezy, and we were glad we had dressed in layers.
JoAnn on board our Ghent canal boat
We “cruised” the canals for about an hour and I took numerous photos along the way. The views from the boat were scenic and constantly changing. Around one bend we saw medieval stonework and old quays; around another, modern buildings. Graffiti, and wall art reminded us that Ghent is still very much a living city. Enjoy the ride.
An owl watching the canal traffic
Ghent canal
Bridge and sculpture along the Ghent canal
Ghent canal and bridge
Modern building along Ghent canal
You can’t be overdressed for a cruise along the canal
Oldish building and even older tree
Canal-side graffiti
Barge with figure of a lady on the prow
Ghent’s history reaches back to the Middle Ages when it became one of the most powerful and prosperous cities in Flanders. Its wealth came largely from the wool and cloth trade, which helped make Ghent, by the 13th and 14th centuries, one of the largest and most influential cities in northern Europe. The city’s medieval strength is still visible in its great landmarks, including the Castle of the Counts, the Belfry, St. Bavo’s Cathedral, and the old guild houses along the Graslei and Korenlei. Over time, Ghent moved through periods of political struggle, religious conflict, and industrial growth, but it retained much of the architectural character that makes the city so visually compelling today.
The following view looks out over the River Leie from the direction of the St. Michael’s Bridge toward the historic quays of Graslei and Korenlei. Once part of Ghent’s busy medieval harbor, the area is now one of the city’s most atmospheric places, where old guild houses, canal boats, cafés, and pedestrians gather along the water. It is the kind of scene that captures Ghent especially well — historic, lively, and beautifully lived in.
Graslei and Korenlei along the River Leie
The tour promised an hour free time for us to explore on our own. We got off our boat at Graslei and Korenlei and went in search of St. Bavo’s cathedral. Inside St. Bavo’s is the famous Ghent Altarpiece, also known as The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. Completed in 1432 by Hubert and Jan van Eyck, it is considered one of the great works of early European painting.
The altarpiece is remarkable for its religious symbolism, but also for the extraordinary detail in the faces, clothing, jewels, and landscape. It has survived theft, war, hiding, and restoration, which only adds to its place in the long story of Ghent. It was the real prize for me and something I truly wanted to see. Fortunately we had just enough time to get to the cathedral, visit the altarpiece, and return to the group.
On our way to the cathedral, we passed the Royal Dutch Theatre of Ghent. I really enjoyed the mosaic façade which depicts Apollo with the Muses.
Royal Dutch Theatre of Ghent
Looking across the historic heart of Ghent, the Belfry of Ghent rises in the foreground as a symbol of the city’s medieval civic power, while the Tower of St. Bavo’s Cathedral stands beyond it, home to the celebrated Ghent Altarpiece.
Belfry of Ghent Tower in foreground and St. Bavo’s Bell Tower in the distance
St. Bavo’s Cathedral is one of Ghent’s great landmarks, built largely in the Gothic style on the site of earlier churches. Its exterior has a strong, almost fortress-like presence, while the interior contains chapels, stained glass, sculpture, and important works of art. Best known as the home of the Ghent Altarpiece, the cathedral is a place where Ghent’s faith, art, and medieval wealth come together. Stroll through St. Bavo’s with JoAnn and me.
Main Aisle, St. Bavo’s Cathedral
Stained glass window, St. Bavo’s Cathedral, Ghent
The pulpit in St. Bavo’s is a dramatic Rococo work made of black and white marble, oak, and gilded wood. Its rich carving and theatrical design make it feel less like ordinary church furniture and more like a sculpture placed at the center of the cathedral. It is considered one of the great Rococo works of 18th-century religious sculpture in the Southern Netherlands.
And now, on to the Ghent Altarpiece. It is truly magnificent. An interesting fact is that during World War II, the Ghent Altarpiece was taken by the Nazis and hidden in the Altaussee salt mine in Austria. In 1945, it was recovered by Allied forces with the help of the U.S. Army’s “Monuments Men,” adding yet another remarkable chapter to the long and dramatic history of this extraordinary work of art.
Center panels, Ghent Altarpiece
Lamb of God Panel, Ghent Altarpiece
On the lower left is the panel of The Just Judges. It is a replica of the original. It is immediately beside the panel showing the Knights of Christ, a group of mounted riders moving toward the central scene of the Mystic Lamb. The original panel was stolen in 1934 and has never been recovered; the panel now on display is a replacement copy.
The Just Judges on the left and Knights of Christ on the right
On the far right of the upper row is Eve, painted with such natural detail that she almost startles the viewer. Nearby panels show angels, St. John the Baptist, hermits, and pilgrims, all contributing to the larger movement toward the central image of the Mystic Lamb.
Right side panels of the Ghent Altarpiece with, Eve in the upper right
The upper far-left panel shows Adam, painted with remarkable realism and human vulnerability. Beside him, the singing angels shift the scene from human frailty to heavenly worship, helping frame the larger message of the altarpiece.
Upper far left panel depicting Adam
Then on our way back to the canal boat we decided to stop at a little shop for some French fries and mayonnaise. We had fries and mayo about 30 years ago on our first visit to Amsterdam and really liked them. Back then, they were served in a paper cup formed from old newspapers and sold by sidewalk vendors. A real treat indeed.
After standing in line at the snack bar for a couple of minutes, I ordered and offered to pay. Very little cash changes hands and most everything is paid for with a little piece of plastic containing an embedded NFC chip. As the lady showed me her hand-held device, I tapped my card and then noticed, to my great surprise, that the serving of fries and mayo cost me €70, or so I thought. That was going to be the most expensive serving of fries I ever bought. So I asked the lady, “Did I just pay you €70 for these fries?” No, she said and showed me her machine. As it turned out, I misread the machine and the fries were actually €7. I apologized, and we moved on and I have to say, I’ve had better fries.
Here are a few more photos as we returned, up the canal, to our waiting bus. Let’s start with Gravensteen, also called the Castle of the Counts. It rises above the canals of Ghent like a reminder of the city’s medieval power. Built by the Counts of Flanders, it once served as a fortress, residence, court, and prison, and today remains one of the most striking landmarks in the historic center.
Gravensteen Castle
Gravensteen Castle, another view
Across from Gravensteen Castle
Flowers on a balcony along the canal
Along the canal of Ghent
And one last photo taken from the canal before we boarded our bus to return to the Majestic Princess.
Tree on the side of the canal
Goodbye Ghent.