Wind, Rain, and a Wonderful Day in Copenhagen, July 3, 2026

We docked in Copenhagen on Friday, July 3rd, and were greeted by wind, rain, and gray skies. Fortunately, as we would soon discover, the weather did little to diminish one of Europe’s most enjoyable cities.

Our plans were to take the shuttle bus from the pier to the Metro and the Metro to Kongens Nytorv or “The King’s New Square.” It is one of Copenhagen’s largest and most important public places and is a major landmark and gathering spot at the edge of the historic district.

Copenhagen began as a small Viking-era fishing and trading settlement and over the following centuries it developed into an important Baltic trading center before becoming Denmark’s capital in the early 15th century. Its name is often understood as “Merchants’ Harbor,” a reminder that the city’s identity has always been tied to water, trade, and movement.

Today, Copenhagen feels like a city that has managed to keep its historic character while fully embracing modern urban life. The city is known for royal palaces, a colorful harbor front, excellent restaurants and a civic culture built around sustainability and daily livability. Perhaps more than anything, Copenhagen presents a graceful balance: old cobblestone streets and royal history alongside bicycles, waterfront architecture, cafés, food markets, and a distinctly modern Scandinavian sense of ease. And rumor has it that the Danes are one of the happiest people in the world.

Waiting for the shuttle bus in the rain and wind

We took the shuttle, with about 50 other people, to the nearest metro station. The station was modern and clean and confusing. All signage was in Danish, and buying a ticket was a challenge. Fortunately, a station employee patiently showed me how to buy tickets using the phone app, allowing us to avoid what had become a very long line.

The ride into town was uneventful and, I must say, the metro system was very efficient. Before we knew it, we arrived at our destination, Kongens Nytorv. We try to take the metro whenever we can, in whatever city we are visiting. The Metro is usually inexpensive and very efficient. And, more often than not in Europe, they are clean.

Kongens Nytorv with the Royal Danish Theatre in the background and gray clouds overhead

In the center of the square is the statue of King Christian V who designed Kongens Nytorv in the late 1600s. For some reason, statues like this always seem to come with a seagull standing on the head of the rider. It may be hard to see the seagull, but trust me, it’s there.

Statue of King Christian V in Kongens Nytorv

Off we went to find the picturesque canal, Nyhavn (which means “New Harbor” in Danish), which is a symbol of Copenhagen in all the tourist books; colorful houses and boats tied up along the quay. It is one of the city’s most photographed places and, little did we know, it was only a few hundred meters from where we exited the metro.

Nyhavn

Nyhavn

Selfie taken at Nyhavn

As I said, it was blustery and cold with occasional rain blowing in our faces. I suggested to JoAnn that we find a place for a cup of coffee so we could sit down and plot our excursion for the day. We ducked into a small neighborhood café to warm up with cappuccinos and plan the rest of the day.

Unnamed coffee shop, Copenhagen

As we were making our way to the coffee shop, we passed an interesting store with a window full of dolls. Of great interest to me was the picture, on the lower left of the window, of a little girl with her doll. I wondered if her doll was created to resemble her.

Doll shop, Copenhagen

Dolls in window with photo of girl, lower left middle on the bottom

Dolls in window, Copenhagen

Picture of girl with her doll, Copenhagen

While in the coffee shop, JoAnn and I discussed where to have lunch and considered a few restaurants. We chose a local place that came highly recommended. So dually caffeinated, we set out at a leisurely pace in the direction of Restaurant Shonnemann. Of course, I took some photos along the way.

Stroget, pedestrian Street

As we ambled along in search of the restaurant, we entered Nina Bangs Plats and found this statue in a grass plot in the center. It seemed somewhat inconsistent with its surroundings. Out of curiosity, I did some research to find out who was Nina Bang. It turns out that she was a Danish historian and social democratic politician who became Denmark’s first female cabinet minister in 1924. The square where the statue is located was named for her in 1990. I wonder what she would think of her statue.

Nina Bang statue in Nina Bangs Plat

Nina Bang from Wikipedia

Street scene, Copenhagen

Then we finally arrived at Restaurant Shonnemann.

Restaurant Shonnemann

We were not deterred by the sign that they were fully booked. I said to JoAnn, “Let’s try and see if there’s a possibility they can slide us in.” Obviously, we did not have a reservation. So, in we went. I spoke with a lovely lady at reception. I said, “we didn’t make a reservation but I was hoping you could squeeze us in.” As luck would have it, someone either canceled or never appeared, and a table was available. How lucky were we? Sometimes a smile and simple request work.

The restaurant was founded in 1877 and is one of the oldest existing dining places in Copenhagen. It originally catered to local farmers who came to town to sell their goods, and today the clientele is a mixed crowd of young and old, ladies and gentlemen and business people who are meeting to enjoy a pleasant lunch.

JoAnn perusing the menu, Restaurant Shonnemann

JoAnn and I shared a fried fillet of Plaice (a mild flat fish similar to flounder), which was terrific, followed by a smoked Danish cheese open-face, smorgasbord-type sandwich, all of which was accompanied by a local beer. We both agree that the meal was absolutely wonderful and the service was outstanding.

Interior, Restaurant Shonnemann

As I said, the service was terrific. Our server, whose name I don’t recall, was very jovial and outgoing. He helped us with our selections and guided us along the way. When lunch was over and we paid the bill, I told him I wanted to take a picture inside the restaurant. He insisted on taking a picture of JoAnn and me along with the hostess, the same lady that found us a table. We appreciated the fact she seated us and we were even more appreciative after lunch because the experience was so enjoyable.

JoAnn, Carl and hostess

When the server returned the camera to me, I found he left a little gift. Perhaps a “forget me not.”

Server, Restaurant Shonnemann

Not only was he a good server, he also had a good sense of humor.

Sometimes it’s the unexpected experiences that become the highlights of the day, and lunch at Schønnemann turned out to be one of ours.

And then, we went in search of Rosenborg Castle, where the crown jewels of Denmark are housed. When we arrived, we were informed that we needed timed tickets and that the next tour would be approximately an hour and a half to two hours after our arrival. Without tour tickets. We were disappointed, but that’s travel. Sometimes the best-laid plans simply don’t work out. Fortunately, Copenhagen offered plenty of wonderful alternatives.

Rosenborg Castle

Rosenborg Castle

King’s Garden, outside and around Rosenborg Castle

We decided to visit the royal residences at Amalienborg Palace, which is where the Royal Family lives when in Copenhagen. Before finding the palace complex, we came across Frederik’s Church, more commonly known as the Marble Church. Facing the Amalienborg Palace, it forms the centerpiece of the city’s elegant royal district. Begun in 1749, it was only completed a hundred and fifty years later, in 1894.

Frederik’s Church

Frederik’s Church

The interior was beautiful in its simplicity.

Main aisle and altar

Crucifix on altar

Looking up into the great dome of Frederik’s Church, we saw frescoes of the Apostles circling the ceiling. I thought the dome was outstanding, one of the most interesting and beautiful that I have seen.

Dome

Organ, Frederik’s Church

Frederik’s Church is beautiful not because it overwhelms the visitor with decoration, but because it lets the great open space, pale stone and soaring dome do most of the work. Its interior has a restrained elegance that feels calm, balanced, and dignified. Looking upward into the dome, the church seems both simple and grand at the same time. It is a must when visiting Copenhagen.

As I said, we were on the way to Amalienborg Palace when we detoured to the church. Amalienborg Palace is nearby and faces the church. The Royals were not in residence today and we were able to tour through one of the four buildings that comprise the palace complex. I took photos inside as we walked through and, in no particular order. Here are a few of the rooms and objects that caught my attention.

Amalienborg Palace complex

JoAnn studying information with photo of generations of Royal Family in the background

Garden Room

Possessions of Alexandrine, who became Queen in 1912 as wife of Christian X. Pictured are her driving license, sunglasses, embroidered makeup bag with accompanying lipstick and powder

Photos of royal family and relatives

King Christian IX’s study

Family photos in Faberge frames

Queen Louise’ room

Last but not least is the Great Hall, which hosted dinners and dancing, state receptions, and court ceremonies. It reflects the elegant neo-classical style that came to define much of Denmark’s royal architecture in the 18th century.

No visit to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to Tivoli. So, after our visit to Amalienborg Palace we decided to head over to that famous amusement park. Once again, as we went I took many photos along the way starting with shots on the Stroget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe.

Stroget

We didn’t do any, and I do mean none, shopping so far this trip. Today was the exception as I remembered that the was a Georg Jensen shop on the Stroget where, on a prior visit to Copenhagen, I purchased a few Christmas ornaments and I wanted to stop there to see what’s new for Christmas. We found the store and some small, brass ornaments as well. So we, or should I say I, went shopping. The young lady who helped us is a grad-student and was just lovely.

Christmas ornaments, Georg Jensen store, Copenhagen

The architecture in the historic area is outstanding; historic buildings appear around nearly every corner. We passed by the historic Royal Copenhagen building. Copenhagen has blended Dutch Renaissance buildings with modern life. As we wandered along Strøget, I found myself looking up as often as I looked into the shop windows. Copenhagen treasures its architectural heritage. Somehow the old and the new don’t clash—they simply belong together.

Royal Copenhagen Building, Stroget, Copenhagen

On our way to Tivoli, and not far from Georg Jensen and Royal Copenhagen is the Stork Fountain with three bronze storks. It was unveiled in 1894 as a gift to Crown Prince Frederik (later King Frederik VIII) and Crown Princess Louise. Although it began as a commemorative monument, it has become much more than that. Since 1950, newly qualified Danish midwives have celebrated their graduation by dancing around the fountain, making it one of Copenhagen’s most beloved traditions. 

Stork Fountain

By late afternoon the rain had finally eased, although the clouds never completely gave way.

Across from Tivoli is city hall and the Dragon Fountain. The central sculpture depicts a powerful bull locked in combat with a dragon and is very dramatic.

Copenhagen City Hall in City Hall Square

Dragon Fountain, City Hall Square, Copenhagen

And now, welcome to Tivoli Gardens. On our two previous visits to Copenhagen, we ended the day at Tivoli. One evening we enjoyed an unforgettable dinner beneath the lights while music drifted through the trees. Perhaps memory has polished the experience a bit over the years, but in my mind Tivoli remains one of the most magical places we’ve visited. I was delighted to return.

Tivoli

Opened in 1843, Tivoli Gardens is one of the world’s oldest amusement parks and one of Copenhagen’s most beloved attractions. More than just rides, Tivoli combines beautifully landscaped gardens, historic architecture, restaurants, concerts, and evening illuminations into a destination enjoyed by visitors of all ages. Walt Disney visited Tivoli several times before creating Disneyland and often credited it as one of the inspirations for his own park. Even if you never ride an attraction, Tivoli is worth visiting simply to experience its unique atmosphere. Enjoy our brief stroll through the park.

Tivoli Gardens

Pagoda on left – Waiting for concert on right

Nimb Hotel and Restaurant Complex

We came upon one of Tivoli’s most enduring symbols—the Pjerrot Monument. The white-faced clown is Pjerrot, the park’s beloved mascot since 1843, while the bronze medallion honors Niels Henrik Volkersen, the actor who portrayed the character for nearly fifty years. More than just a statue, it has long served as one of Tivoli’s favorite meeting places.

Pjerrot Monument

Flowers on left – Pagoda on right

Boat harbor

Going up on left – Going down on right

Merry-Go-Round/Carousel

Pond with fountains

As evening settled over Tivoli, it seemed like the perfect place to say goodbye to Copenhagen. The city had welcomed us with wind, rain, remarkable architecture, wonderful food, warm people, and one memorable day. Until next time…Farvel (goodbye), Copenhagen. Until next time.

Entrance/exit to Tivoli